Wednesday, 7 May 2014

II. The Slow Boat from China


So my shipping company informs me (after about 6 weeks since my leaving Shanghai) that my goods are, well…. still stuck in Shanghai. 



Pray, why, I ask.

Them: Because Bangalore customs is refusing to accept any shipping vessels containing personal effects…
Me:  So you are saying they would be ok shipping a few metric tons of cheap factory-made Hello Kitty lace frocks  for me instead? Or perhaps industrial cargo, if I can get hold of some, from somewhere!

I am met with Stony silence. So I try again…

Me: But Bangalore is not a port?? Customs clearance has to happen at the first port of entry into a country, if goods are being delivered by sea.
Them:  That’s ok – we can ship directly to Bangalore for your convenience. Except that this time, they are not accepting any personal shipments.
(point on personal shipment is reiterated yet again)

Me:  Ok, if you say so… I didn’t think I was signing on Moses for the job. But if you can part the sea, direct it to Bangalore, and also create a port with the express idea of getting my goods shipped to my doorstep, then I will lie prostrate at your feet, and start a new religion.
(my anger and sarcasm are both lost on them)

Them: We are making every effort. We shall get back to you in a couple of days
Me: Here’s an idea – why don’t you try shipping to Mumbai or Chennai instead? They are well, ports, to start with…. So you might have some luck, you know?

I hang up before I totally lose it with them. I want to fling the phone and everything in the room through the telephone wires at them.

Two days later I get an email. It says –
We have made EVERY effort and we are very pleased to inform you that we have finally succeeded in switching the port to Chennai and you will not have to pay anything extra for the change in port from Bangalore to Chennai”.

Seriously?? For free??!
Bloody hell. Geography lesson 101 – where there is a seaport, there is usually a coastline??

Stupidity by itself doesn’t get my goat. It is stupidity with persistent and unwavering confidence in assuming the other person is equally stupid, that does.

Two days later comes another email –
“Your ship has sailed without your goods, because of existing overload of cargo.”

Hallelujah. Stroke of genius, this.

(If any of you are moving, please ask me, and I will tell you which shipping company NOT to go with – unless you are happy for your personal effects to enjoy Shanghai residence for longer than you). 

I. The Long Road Home


Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. 
There are only two great adventures in life – Love and Travel (everything else is just detail for the in-between greys). Both can ruin you for life, leaving you completely ill-equipped to carry on with life-as-usual, after. And both can cause immense (even permanent) dislocation (physical, temporal and any which way you choose to view life). Having said that, both are irresistible in their own ways and once bitten, you kind of want to stay quarantined for life.


So this one is about travel and moving… and the inability to stay put – sometimes out of choice and sometimes out of circumstance (as this latest move has been for me). We don’t always plan life. Life plans us and lets us believe otherwise!

After much kicking, screaming, crying, and straining at the leash, I dragged myself (much against my will) back to the motherland from the pearl of the Orient (Shanghai) – slave to the wage, that I am. The job moved me right back to where it had moved me out once, 3 years back. Anyway, I have learned enough about life to stop resisting and accept whatever happens with grace. It’s called ‘embracing the change’ and letting Life flow through you and in you, and surrendering to the higher wisdom. Well, at least I am trying!

Besides, only in hindsight can one tell if your choices or the ones you are forced to make, are going to turn out to be sub-optimal for you. 20-20 they call hindsight. Yes, well…  I ask you, what effin’ good is hindsight anyway?? Not unless you can time-travel back and forth, innit? Why don’t we ever know while we are RIGHT in the middle of the experience and the moment that this moment here will never come back or that it was the best we could ever have had in our lives? Why does it have to be in hindsight? I hate hindsight. For all the hype of it.

So here I am - back to Bangalore and much has changed since.

My two closest girlfriends have upped and left the city – dream-weaving their way to their destinies. I don’t know anyone at my workplace, never having worked here before, and all the familiarity I have with the city is Maddie’s erstwhile impossibly adorable studio apartment at Indiranagar on monsoon-drenched Sunday afternoons, and our Sunday brunch hangout at Herbs & Spices on 100 Feet road.

That being said, I am determined NOT to mope and wallow in misery at having been forced to leave a whole life behind back in Shanghai. Cycle of life… and it’ll turn right back full cycle again soon enough, one hopes – all I have to do, then, is keep pedaling, right?

So the settling in is hard. I won’t pretend otherwise. The first thing that strikes you, is how hot and how bright the sun really is, back here! And all the noise on the street and the dust flying around from unpaved sidewalks. Then you also notice the absolute kindness of total strangers …

But realities take time to sink in. Especially where your coordinates go for a right royal toss out the window and the entire night-time skyline changes contours right in front of your eyes in under 24 hours. Longitudinally speaking, of course.

No more the Shanghai bling for me, no ‘Hello Kitty’ merchandise, nor the glittering Bund skyline and fake plastic smiles at fake plastic parties in nightclub-bars around town, nor the crazy, drunken dancing at Bar Rouge or Hollywood. Pretty pointless, that – after you’ve had your initial heady fill of it, or the occasional drunken night out. One doesn’t miss all that, one never misses the high-point madness of the initial euphoria of a new city.

What I do miss though – is the rhythm and sounds of simple everyday living.

My 393 Wukang Lu home. In its entirety, every nook and cranny of it, every creaking shiny black floorboard in it.

The quaint, tree-lined, charming Wukang Lu boulevard in the French Concession. The impossibly expensive but impossibly good French bakery opposite my apartment. Ferguson Lane and its restaurants diagonally opposite home. The smiling, friendly staff at Coffee Tree. All of Wukang-Anfu Lu and its boutique cafes and stores. Stopping by at Farine’s and the  vegetable vendor on the way home from work and the usual routine of picking up DVDs, a bottle of wine, fresh bread and vegetables for a dinner-movie night on a random week-night. Friday afternoons ambling around the French concession or a quiet meal at wood-enclosed Puro or homey Hungry Lung’s.

Making copious amounts of mulled wine from not-so-good wine. Baker & Spice’s olive sourdough bread with olive oil and vinegar, with a goat cheese salad on the side, and a couple glasses of wine for dinner on nights when I was too lazy to cook, and all by myself.

The weekly trips to Frank Provost and how good they made me feel (look, too, I guess – nothing like freshly washed salon-dried hair for the weekend)

The Saturday fresh produce, and designer market at Jiashan on Shaanxi Lu twice a month, with its kitsch art stores, Thai and Vietnamese cafes, and bistro sit-outs.

Sometimes just the plain visual pleasure of watching cramped stores stacking everything from old books and records, to little wooden chairs hung up on walls, amidst tables with leafy pots served up for lunch! Very organic.



These are the things one misses.

The pitter-patter of rain on the brick roof of my upstairs sun-room on a rainy day – watching the rain, staring at Audrey Hepburn’s kitschy art poster, trying to read, and day-dreaming.
The warm sunshine on my feet on a cold winter’s day, while sitting upstairs reading
Watching the snow fall on winter nights and feeling lonesome and together all at once.
Sweaty, sexy summer days of much skin and bare shoulders and backyard barbecue parties 
All four seasons…

 Above all, one misses the human touch. Always and only the human touch. The people one will never leave behind, even as cities slip like sand through one’s hands.
The easy laughter of friends, bad jokes, companionship, much wine (good and bad), some Mary Jane to smoke up on particularly adventurous occasions, evenings spent talking about nothing and everything. And all the love, beyond any measure – it’s the love that words will do a poor job of trying to capture…
In the famous words of Elizabeth Bishop and the One Art

The art of losing isn't hard to master.
 I lost two cities, lovely ones. And, vaster,
some realms I owned, two rivers, a continent.
I miss them, but it wasn't a disaster…”
(even though it feels like one, right now).

Bangalore’d I have been.